Cost and cover amounts
Life insurance cost in your 60s
By 60 the decision that mattered was made twenty years ago. If you took level cover then, this decade is comfortable. If you took stepped, it is the decade the bill arrives.
Last reviewed 4 September 2026 · Written and checked by the Best Life Insurance editorial team · How we get paid
In short
- Neither published comparison we rely on quotes an age above 55, so we do not publish a premium figure for a 60-year-old.
- What we can say confidently is the direction: stepped premiums accelerate through this decade rather than levelling off.
- Level cover chosen in your thirties or forties is now paying for itself, which is the entire point of it.
- The right question at 60 is often how much cover you still need, not how to keep all of it.
- Many policies have a maximum expiry age, and some level policies convert to stepped at that point.
- Reducing a sum insured never requires new medical evidence. Cancelling and reapplying always does.
What this is, plainly
In your sixties life insurance stops being a background expense. Stepped premiums are recalculated against your age each year and the increases compound, so a policy that cost a few hundred dollars at 35 can cost several thousand at 65 for the same sum insured.
We do not publish a premium figure for this age because neither of the New Zealand sources we rely on quotes above 55, and we are not prepared to extrapolate one. What we can tell you is the shape: the curve steepens rather than flattening, because the probability of a claim in the next twelve months is rising every year.
If you chose level cover twenty years ago, this is the decade in which that decision pays you back — the premium has not moved while the cost of insuring you has multiplied. If you chose stepped, you are now facing a decision that has no comfortable version.
What to do if you are on stepped cover and it has become unaffordable
| Age | Stepped premium (modelled at 3% a year) | Level premium (fixed) | Level saves |
|---|---|---|---|
| 35 | $400 | $800 | –$400 |
| 45 | $540 | $800 | –$260 |
| 55 | $725 | $800 | –$75 |
| 65 | $970 | $800 | +$170 |
Illustrative only, based on a $400 starting stepped premium and an $800 level premium held to age 65, modelled at a conservative 3% a year. At a more realistic 8% the crossover arrives roughly a decade earlier. Not a quote.
The table above is modelled at 3% a year, which is the conservative end. Real New Zealand stepped increases commonly run higher, and at 8% the stepped line at 65 is far above what is shown. That gap is what people are actually experiencing when they call an adviser at 62 asking what happened.
- 1Recalculate the need before anything else. A repaid mortgage and independent children can mean a much smaller sum insured is genuinely sufficient.
- 2Reduce rather than cancel. Reducing keeps the original underwriting and the original policy terms intact.
- 3Check what the policy does at its expiry age — whether it ends, or converts to stepped at your attained age.
- 4Look at whether cover is still needed for a specific purpose: a business buy-out, estate equalisation, or leaving a spouse debt-free.
- 5If you are considering replacing the policy, do not cancel anything until new cover is accepted in writing.
Not sure what cover you actually need?
That is the question an adviser is there to answer. Tell us your situation and a licensed New Zealand adviser will compare the market and come back with a written recommendation — including where you can cut cover you do not need.
No cost to you and no obligation. General information only — not personalised financial advice.
What to watch for
These are the details that decide whether the cover does what you expected. Read them before you compare on price.
- Whether your policy has a maximum expiry age, and what happens to the cover when you reach it.
- Whether a level premium policy converts to stepped at expiry, which can produce a very large jump.
- Whether the cover still has a purpose, or whether it is being held out of habit.
- Whether health cover or a funeral-cost provision would now serve you better than a large life sum insured.
- Whether your estate would actually need liquidity — for tax on a business sale, or to equalise between children.
Methodology — what these figures include and exclude
Every premium figure on this page is a published market example, not a quote we have generated. Here is exactly what they are.
- Annual figures: MoneyHub’s life insurance comparison, page updated 11 June 2026, for $500,000 of life cover on the profile named in each caption.
- Monthly figures: Quashed Market Scan data, page updated 15 May 2026, for an employed non-smoker with no health issues, across three insurers only.
- Both exclude every discount — healthy-lifestyle, membership, multi-benefit and first-year — and both assume a clean health history with no loading applied.
- Neither reflects policy fee treatment, CPI indexation or the cost of riders, and published rates change between updates.
Your own number comes from an insurer in writing, after underwriting. Treat these figures as the shape of the market rather than as your price.
Where an adviser makes a difference
Every New Zealand insurer writes what life insurance costs in nz to its own wording, and the words are where the money is. Two policies that look identical on price can pay very differently when it matters. Closing that gap is the entire job of an adviser.
- Working out what cover is still genuinely needed is the highest-value conversation available at this age, and it often ends with less insurance rather than more.
- Some insurers have materially more appetite than others for applicants over 60, and that appetite changes.
- Where the purpose is estate equalisation or a business buy-out, the ownership structure of the policy matters as much as the sum insured.
- An adviser can check whether an old policy has terms — expiry age, definitions, conversion rights — that are better than anything currently sold.
There are three ways to buy life cover in New Zealand, and they are not equivalent. You can buy direct from one insurer, which means you see one product range and one underwriting appetite. You can buy through your bank, which usually means a single insurer’s product sold under the bank’s brand, often with narrower definitions. Or you can go through an adviser, who quotes several insurers at once and is required to put your interests first.
The premium you pay is the same either way. Insurers build adviser commission into their pricing whether or not an adviser is involved, so going direct does not get you a discount — it just removes the person whose job is to argue your corner at application and at claim time.
- An adviser can see which insurer is currently taking your health history on standard terms, and which one will load or exclude it.
- An adviser can structure cover across two insurers if that produces a better outcome than putting everything with one.
- An adviser handles the underwriting back-and-forth, and is the person who chases the claim when a family is least able to.
- An adviser has to document why the recommendation suits you, which is a written record you can hold them to.
What happens if you get in touch
We are a referral service, not an insurer. We do not quote premiums and we do not sell policies. What we do is put you in front of one licensed New Zealand adviser who can compare the market properly.
- 1
You tell us what you are looking at
The form takes about a minute. Nobody asks for your medical history on a web form — that conversation happens with the adviser, properly, and only once you have decided to proceed.
- 2
An adviser calls you
A licensed New Zealand adviser talks through your situation: who depends on you, what you owe, what you already have in place, and what you are actually worried about.
- 3
They compare the market
The adviser quotes across the major insurers, checks which of them will take your health history on the best terms, and puts the options side by side in writing.
- 4
You decide, in your own time
There is no obligation and no cost to you. If the answer is that you already have enough cover, a good adviser will tell you that.
Frequently asked questions
How much does life insurance cost at 65 in New Zealand?
We do not publish a figure. Neither of the New Zealand comparisons we rely on quotes above age 55, and extrapolating a premium for a 65-year-old would be inventing a number. An adviser can quote the market for your age and health in a few days.
Is it worth keeping life insurance in your 60s?
It depends entirely on whether the money would still be needed. If the mortgage is gone, the children are independent and your partner would be financially fine, the honest answer may be no. If there is a business buy-out, an estate to equalise, or a spouse who would struggle, it may be the most valuable policy you hold.
Why has my life insurance premium doubled in ten years?
Because stepped premiums are recalculated against your age each year and the increases compound, and because CPI indexation may have been increasing your sum insured at the same time. Check your annual renewal notice for whether indexation is switched on.
Can I reduce my life insurance instead of cancelling it?
Yes, and it is almost always the better move. Reducing the sum insured lowers the premium immediately, requires no new medical evidence, and keeps the original policy and its underwriting in force.
Should I have chosen level premiums when I was younger?
If you are still holding cover in your sixties, then almost certainly yes. That is the honest answer, and it is why the structure decision made in your thirties matters more than which insurer you chose. It does not help now, but it is worth knowing before you advise your own children.