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What to look for in life insurance

Every site that answers “which is the best life insurer” is guessing, because the answer depends on a medical history it has never seen. What can be answered is what a good policy looks like. That is this page.

Last reviewed 4 September 2026 · Written and checked by the Best Life Insurance editorial team · How we get paid

In short

  • A ranked list of insurers is not possible, because the deciding variable is your own underwriting outcome.
  • What is possible is a list of criteria, and applying them properly will get you a better result than any league table.
  • Premium structure — stepped or level, and to what age — usually costs more over a lifetime than the choice of insurer.
  • Definitions decide claims: terminal illness, the major trauma conditions, TPD, and the income protection offset clause.
  • Future insurability protects you against your own future health, and its limits are not standard.
  • Size the cover against real liabilities rather than a round number, then check you can sustain the premium.
  • The shortlist is personal. An adviser produces it after seeing your history; a web page cannot.

What this is, plainly

The question “which is the best life insurance in New Zealand” has no answer, and the reason is structural rather than evasive. A life policy is a contract between one insurer and one person with one medical history. Reinsurers take different views of the same condition, and appetite is renegotiated without announcement. The insurer taking a treated thyroid condition at standard rates this year may not next year.

So the honest version of the question is: what does a good policy look like, and how do I recognise one? That can be answered, and it is worth more than any ranking because it survives changes in the market.

Work through the criteria below in order, roughly by how much money each moves over the life of a policy.

The criteria that decide whether a policy is any good

  1. 1The right products, in the right order. Protect the income first, because it pays for everything else including the other premiums. Then the debt. Then a lump sum for the family. Most people buy in the reverse order because life cover is the product they have heard of.
  2. 2A sum insured sized against real liabilities. Mortgage balance, other debt, the years until the youngest child is independent, the income the household relies on — less what you already hold and can access. A round number is a guess.
  3. 3A premium structure you can sustain. Stepped is cheap now and expensive at 60, which is when people cancel and when claims become likely. Level costs more early and fixes the age-related increase to a chosen expiry age. Ask for cumulative cost under both, modelled at more than 3% a year.
  4. 4Definitions you have actually read. Terminal illness at 12 or 24 months. The trauma definitions for the major conditions. Own-occupation TPD and the age it converts. The income protection offset clause. These decide claims and none appear in a quote.
  5. 5Future insurability. The right to increase cover after a birth, a house purchase, a marriage or a salary rise without new medical evidence. It is the benefit that protects you against your own future health, and the triggers and caps differ between insurers.
  6. 6An underwriting outcome you have tested. If your history is anything but simple, a pre-assessment across several insurers before any formal application is the highest-value step available to you.

How to build your own shortlist

  • Write down what you are insuring and for how long, before looking at any product.
  • Get quotes on matched terms — same sum insured, structure, expiry age, waiting and benefit periods, indexation setting.
  • Read the full policy wordings, not the summaries. The wording is the contract.
  • Pre-assess any non-trivial health history across insurers before making a formal application.
  • Compare the household total including policy fees and discounts, not the per-benefit rate.
  • Then choose, and diarise a review for the next time your life changes.

Not sure what cover you actually need?

That is the question an adviser is there to answer. Tell us your situation and a licensed New Zealand adviser will compare the market and come back with a written recommendation — including where you can cut cover you do not need.

No cost to you and no obligation. General information only — not personalised financial advice.

What to watch for

These are the details that decide whether the cover does what you expected. Read them before you compare on price.

  • Any site presenting a ranked list of New Zealand insurers without saying what the ranking is based on.
  • Quotes that are not matched — a different waiting period or expiry age makes the comparison meaningless.
  • Cover sized to a round number rather than to your actual debts and dependants.
  • Stepped premiums taken without modelling what they become at 60 and 65.
  • Indexation switched on by default, lifting both cover and premium each year unless declined.
  • A policy bought because it was cheapest, without anyone reading the definitions.

Where an adviser makes a difference

Every New Zealand insurer writes life and living cover to its own wording, and the words are where the money is. Two policies that look identical on price can pay very differently when it matters. Closing that gap is the entire job of an adviser.

  • The one variable that decides most outcomes — how each insurer would treat your history — is not published and is only obtainable through a panel relationship.
  • An adviser sizes the cover against your actual liabilities rather than a rule of thumb.
  • An adviser models stepped against level to the age you will really hold the cover, not just this year’s premium.
  • An adviser will tell you when you do not need more cover, which is a service a comparison table cannot provide.
  • At claim, an adviser assembles the evidence and argues the definition.

There are three ways to buy life cover in New Zealand, and they are not equivalent. You can buy direct from one insurer, which means you see one product range and one underwriting appetite. You can buy through your bank, which usually means a single insurer’s product sold under the bank’s brand, often with narrower definitions. Or you can go through an adviser, who quotes several insurers at once and is required to put your interests first.

The premium you pay is the same either way. Insurers build adviser commission into their pricing whether or not an adviser is involved, so going direct does not get you a discount — it just removes the person whose job is to argue your corner at application and at claim time.

  • An adviser can see which insurer is currently taking your health history on standard terms, and which one will load or exclude it.
  • An adviser can structure cover across two insurers if that produces a better outcome than putting everything with one.
  • An adviser handles the underwriting back-and-forth, and is the person who chases the claim when a family is least able to.
  • An adviser has to document why the recommendation suits you, which is a written record you can hold them to.

What happens if you get in touch

We are a referral service, not an insurer. We do not quote premiums and we do not sell policies. What we do is put you in front of one licensed New Zealand adviser who can compare the market properly.

  1. 1

    You tell us what you are looking at

    The form takes about a minute. Nobody asks for your medical history on a web form — that conversation happens with the adviser, properly, and only once you have decided to proceed.

  2. 2

    An adviser calls you

    A licensed New Zealand adviser talks through your situation: who depends on you, what you owe, what you already have in place, and what you are actually worried about.

  3. 3

    They compare the market

    The adviser quotes across the major insurers, checks which of them will take your health history on the best terms, and puts the options side by side in writing.

  4. 4

    You decide, in your own time

    There is no obligation and no cost to you. If the answer is that you already have enough cover, a good adviser will tell you that.

Frequently asked questions

Why will nobody tell me which New Zealand life insurer is best?

Because it depends on your medical history, your occupation and what you are insuring, and because underwriting appetite is not published and changes as insurers renegotiate reinsurance treaties. Anyone giving you a single answer is either guessing or being paid to say it. What can be given honestly is a set of criteria and a method.

What makes one life insurance policy better than another?

The definitions that decide claims, the premium structure you can sustain, whether cover can be increased later without new medical evidence, and whether the underwriting took your history on reasonable terms. Price matters, but it is the fifth item on that list rather than the first.

How do I know if my life insurance is any good?

Read your schedule and check the sum insured against your current debts and dependants. Then check four clauses in the wording: the terminal illness definition, the trauma definitions for the major conditions, the TPD definition and conversion age, and the income protection offset clause. If any of those surprise you, it is worth a review.

Is the most expensive life insurance the best?

No. Price correlates loosely with breadth and not at all with quality. An expensive policy can have a narrow terminal illness definition and an early TPD conversion age; a cheaper one can be broader. The only way to know is to compare the specific clauses rather than the premium.

Should I choose an insurer based on financial strength ratings?

Weigh them as one input, not as a ranking. All licensed New Zealand insurers meet the same prudential requirements under the Insurance (Prudential Supervision) Act 2010 and must maintain and disclose a current rating. A one-notch difference between two licensed insurers is usually less consequential than a difference in the definitions.

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